TOP JEWELRY METALS
Gold? Silver? Sterling? Hold that thought! Whether you’re picking out the perfect present or doing some research before purchasing an investment piece, read up on the different jewelry metals, plus benefits for each type. We’ve got all the info you need to make jewelry shopping so much easier!
GOOD AS GOLD
gold jewelry
The gold standard when it comes to fine jewelry. Gold is prized for its rich yellow color, lustrous finish and durability. It will not rust, tarnish, or corrode. Because gold is too soft to be used by itself (measures 2 on the Mohs scale), it has to be mixed with another metal to give it the strength and hardness to be made into jewelry. The amount of gold in a piece of jewelry is measured in terms of a karat. The karat unit of measurement is signified with a “k”, not to be confused with a carat, which is used to measure the weight of a stone. The karat weight is simply a measure of the gold’s purity. Pure gold is 24k; the lower the amount of pure gold in a piece of jewelry, the lower the karat number. Common denominations of gold used in the making of jewelry are:
- KARAT
RATING - PART GOLD/
PART OTHER METAL - % OF
GOLD - EUROPEAN
MARKING
- 24k
- 24 parts gold
- 100.00%
- 999
- 22k
- 22k parts gold / 2 parts other metals
- 91.60%
- 916
- 18k
- 18k parts gold / 6 parts other metals
- 75.00%
- 750
- 14k
- 14k parts gold / 10 parts other metals
- 58.50%
- 585
- 10k
- 10k parts gold / 14 parts other metals
- 41.50%
- 515
The amount (or percentage) of gold in a piece of jewelry affects its value; the higher the percentage of gold, the more valuable it is. However, higher karat gold is softer and can become thinner with wear, making a lower karat gold the stronger option. Gold jewelry must be stamped with a number that shows the gold content (in terms of karats) and the manufacturer’s logo, trademark or symbol. This stamping is found on the inside of gold rings and on the clasp of gold bracelets or gold necklaces.
gold colors
All that glitters is not always gold. Gold can come in different colors, and the tone is determined by the type and amount of other metals (called alloys) that are blended into the gold mixture used to make the piece of gold jewelry.
gold color
components
Rose Gold
Copper is added to the gold mixture
Yellow Gold
Copper and silver are added
to the gold mixture
White Gold*
Platinum, palladium, nickel and/or zinc
are added to the gold mixture
*Note: The natural color of the white gold mixture is a light grey with yellow undertones. Therefore, most white gold is coated in rhodium to give it a more brilliant shine. White gold jewelry is a less expensive alternative to platinum.
discoloration caused by gold
Wearers of precious metal jewelry sometimes experience a black smudge on the skin called black dermagraphism. Gold itself hardly ever stains the skin; it's the other metals (like copper, nickel and silver) it’s mixed with that can cause the discoloration. This discoloration is because of the alloy’s reaction to perspiration, nickel content in the jewelry or chemicals in cosmetics, medicated creams, and lotions.
two-tone & tricolor gold jewelry
Why not mix it up? There’s a wide assortment of jewelry pieces that combine two or three different colors of gold in one piece. These pieces are referred to as two-tone and tricolor gold jewelry. Two-tone jewelry consists of yellow and white gold, while tricolor jewelry consists of yellow, white and rose gold.
MUST-HAVE METALS
vermeil jewelry
Looking for something different that won’t break the bank? Vermeil jewelry is the perfect choice! Made from sterling silver with a layer of 14k or 18k gold bonded to the silver, vermeil looks and feels like solid 14k or 18k gold jewelry but with a lower price point. Vermeil shouldn’t be confused with gold-plated jewelry, as it’s significantly more durable than gold plating. Vermeil pieces don’t carry a gold karat stamp; instead they carry a silver stamp of 925.
platinum jewelry
Durable, desirable and hard to beat, platinum is the rarest of the three precious metals used to create fine jewelry. The standard of platinum in the U.S. and most western countries is 95% pure. It’s designated by the “PLAT” or “Pt.” marking: 950 PLAT or 950 Pt. Platinum is usually mixed with other similar metals, known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium and osmium. It’s more durable than gold, making it great for jewelry that is worn every day like platinum rings and wedding bands. In the last few years, jewelry made of white metals, as opposed to yellow gold, has grown increasingly popular. Platinum jewelry has many benefits:
- It’s harder than gold and silver, and weighs significantly more than gold.
- It doesn’t rust, corrode, or tarnish.
- It almost never causes allergic reactions and a great alternative for those who are allergic to the nickel in white gold.
- It’s very durable and often used in settings for diamond jewelry because of its strength and durability.
- It’s more expensive than either yellow or white gold.
stainless steel jewelry
Rugged good looks and super strong, too! Durable and anti-corrosive, stainless steel jewelry is often combined with other materials (such as rubber or gold) to give it a distinctive look. Its clean-line styling makes it ideal for both sporty and dressy styles, and it can be worn during water activities.
titanium jewelry
A strong contender—titanium's unusual strength and unique characteristics have made it one of the major metals used in contemporary men’s jewelry like rings and bracelets. It’s an excellent metal for an active lifestyle. Titanium jewelry is also:
- 40% stronger and 30% lighter than stainless steel
- Non-corrosive and highly resistant to salt, perspiration and high temperatures
- Hypoallergenic as it does not contain nickel
- 20% softer than stainless steel and prone to scratching
- Considerably more expensive than stainless steel
sterling silver
Pure silver is a soft metal with a white, lustrous hue. Due to its high level of softness, pure silver is too malleable to be used alone in jewelry making. Silver is typically mixed with copper to give it strength.
Sterling Silver is an alloy created from 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent cooper. A mark or stamping of “925”, “Sterling”, “SS”, and “STER” indicates that the piece meets the “sterling” which is typically used in the production of jewelry.
Sterling silver jewelry does not require a lot of care. The more you wear it; the better its appearance will be. To keep your sterling silver jewelry with its original shine we
recommend using our Sparkle Safe Jewelry Cleaner.
rhodium plating
Rhodium is part of the platinum family and known as the most expensive of all precious metals. While rhodium is both too expensive and too brittle to make jewelry out of, it makes an excellent plating material. It is often used to hide imperfections and lend a higher sheen to silver or white gold pieces. Being harder than both silver and gold, it also makes an excellent protective coat that shields jewelry from scratches. One of its greatest advantages is that it doesn’t tarnish and requires no particular cleaning procedures. Rhodium plating should last approximately 6 months to a year before the plating will need to be reapplied.
In order to maintain its rhodium plating avoid rubbing similar metals together during daily wear. Removing jewelry while using household cleaning products will help plating last longer.
You Might Also Like:
